Forget mirror, signal, maneuver

I want to get a car, so need to get my driver’s license. I passed first time in the UK, so this should be a doddle right?

To be honest, I’m petrified of driving in Colombia, but I bite the bullet, climbed into the driving seat and have been driving poco a poco (little by little). It started by driving the last part of the journey to / from the farm (Cajica to Tabio), then one night, my friend took me out in Bogota and made me do all sorts of complicated manoeuvres on the mountainous roads. I am still scared, and pretty much feel all the good driving etiquette I’ve been taught by my fab instructor fly out the window onto the potholed streets (sorry Ray).

So, here’s a few ‘do’s and don’ts’ I’ve learnt when driving. Fasten your seat belts as I take you on a hair-raising ride (although seat belts are not mandatory in Colombia).

Do avoid the potholes (at whatever cost). This means you preferably swerve into the next lane, but at the very least, you drive very, very slowly / carefully so not to damage your suspension. Yes, the streets are filled with crater-like holes….the sort where in the UK would be swiftly filled in overnight and forgotten about the next day. Not here. Here, they live and grow and breed until there’s a family of potholes living together in pothole heaven, each with their own permanent residence. It’s almost like the road has been bent and snapped by the earth’s movements, and is there as a friendly reminder that the mountains are part of the country. This also applies to walking too. It’s potentially life-threatening to walk in the streets without looking where you’re going. The pavement can literally fall away from underneath you as there are ‘surprise’ holes, gaps, steps and walls making sure you’re looking where you’re going.

A relatively small pothole (image thanks to ‘Good Morning Colombia’)

Do overtake and / or undertake on blind bends, in congested traffic and when other cars are approaching. After all, you don’t have the patience to drive behind the lorry / bus / horse and cart in front until it’s safe to overtake.

Don’t pay attention to traffic signs, as they are just pretty pictures that melt into the background. This includes the aforementioned no overtaking sign and most of all the speed limits. In fact, do drive as fast as you want, and there are none of those speed cameras we loath in the UK. This is great fun until you need to actually use some signs to find out where to go. These don’t exist like they do in the UK either. In Bogota, it’s generally easier as the city lies on a grid system. For the countryside, the best you can do is ask locals if you don’t know where you’re going (…and no, A-Z’s don’t exist here).

Do expect to be sitting in traffic. A lot of traffic. Traffic is so bad here that Bogota has ‘pico y placa’. Pico y placa is where (depending on your license plate), you can’t drive in the city for two days a week between 6am and 8pm. Yes, that’s right. You can’t drive your car for two whole days a week ANYWHERE in the city. This is fine. It just means you buy another car with an alternating license plate.

The traffic jams remain.

Bogota traffic (thanks to http://thecityfix.com)

Don’t stop at red traffic lights at night, it would be dull if you did. I mean, what’s the point? There’s no oncoming traffic at night.

Don’t stop for any gunmen who may be standing in the middle of the road at night. If you see anyone in the road, armed or not, do not stop and keep on driving (at speed).

Don’t pay attention to lanes. They are just for show and don’t mean slow, medium and fast traffic, but just a witty way to split the road up. It’s fine to drive in whichever lane you fancy, even oncoming traffic lanes as your one has suddenly disappeared. It doesn’t matter if it’s a mountain road with blind bends. Yes, temporary traffic lights are a distant memory.

The road falling away is just part of the fun (image thanks to http://blog.travelpod.com)

Do forget the highway code and beep your horn as much as want. You wouldn’t be taken seriously if you didn’t. Remember, you have no patience when driving, and do not bother to let other people out or give into ‘right of way’. This also applies for pedestrians. Do not bother letting a pedestrian cross the road (even if the light is green for them) as they will only delay your journey.

Do not use indicators. They are those pretty flashing light thingies which kind of look like Christmas tree lights. They’re decorative and don’t actually aid you when driving as you can turn whenever you want at short notice.

So basically, forget the highway code, and drive like you’re in a video game; driving at speed and winning points by avoiding gunmen, potholes or stray dogs.

You’re probably wondering why the hell I’d want a car after all of this? Well, I’ve always been pretty good at car racing games and can’t wait to select my car, terrain and get going.

Again, sorry Ray.

You never know what you need to be avoiding on the road (image thanks to WorldNormads.com)

My two month anniversary with Bogota

The other day, I passed my two month anniversary. Yes, I have been in Colombia now for two months. So I thought instead of introducing you to restaurants or people, I’d write from the heart and tell you about myself.

So how have I been doing? Overall very well. It is definitely the best move and I haven’t looked back once. But I’m also in a state of transition as I adjust to my new environment. Yes, I have been here loads before, and have lots of family here, but I have never lived in a place as an adult in quite the same capacity. I am also starting to look forward to getting my life sorted and getting a job so I can get some independence and really feel like I’m living like a local.

Until then, I am loving life and taking each day as it comes. I have been learning lots of Spanish but there are still times when I’m in large groups and my mind starts to lose concentration and wonder. This is when I feel detached from the family group like an observer watching a programme with the volume turned off. So I just go make a cup of tea and switch on an episode of The Big Bang Theory to make me feel at home. I still haven’t got my iPhone set up yet with a Colombian network, so am left with a rather antiquated mobile with bad reception and repetitive strain injury from the effort it takes to text someone. This will also explain my ‘on/off’ bogging. It’s a bit hard to write, tweet, Facebook without wifi, so apologies for my absence. I hope you’ve missed me? I’ve missed you.

Back to 2001

Especially you, my parents and friends….and food. That’s what I miss most about the UK. I speak to my mum daily and try to speak to one friend a week. This is by far easier when I’m not working as the six hour time difference means that I’m tucking into my frijoles for lunch, whilst my friends are cooking their dinners after a long day at work. I expect I will look back on these small things when I’m working and think how blooming lucky I was! I have started to make friends here in Colombia, and I am definitely making the effort. Thankfully, the Colombian spirit of introducing you to people and their immediate warmth makes making friends easier than in the UK. I once wrote that these types of friendships usually happen in the pub back home… after far too many glasses of wine and a drunken story that bounds you together through sheer embarrassment.

So I have been learning Spanish during the day, writing my blog, reading, and travelling around. My self-imposed ‘mini-retirement’ is coming to an end and I have loved it. Before you ask, yes I do have plans to travel further afield that family fincas. I have an idea to go on a little trip before I start working. It will be a couple of nights in Medellin (where I have family), a week in the Zona Cafetera (where the coffee is grown) followed by a couple of nights chilling in my aunt’s apartment in Santa Marta. I plan to go alone, as I honestly have never travelled alone before. The whole backpacking the world experience completely bypassed me. I also plan to buy a car. Yes, that’s right, I will be driving in Colombia. For those of you from Colombia, or have been to Colombia, you will know that driving here is completely mental. I mean insane. So much so, that I will tell you about it in more detail as a blog post. Yes, it deserves that much attention.

I also have a plan to buy a bread maker. Hmmmm, I mentioned that I miss the food from home (mind wonders off…). Good bread seems to have bypassed the Colombian market. Yes, there are specialist, posh shops around that will happily sell you bread for the price of a restaurant’s main course, but in the local supermarkets, the standard bread is pretty dismal. So, I had a brainwave. Buy a bread maker. Yes, I think this will be a decent solution to having a simple ham and salad sandwich we take for granted. God, I miss Hovis. And biscuits. And pretty much anything from Waitrose. But, my tea consumption has gone up tenfold. I have feeling I will also lose this when I start working too. Electric kettles don’t really exist here….After boiling my water in a pan for the first few days on arrival, I was handled a kettle for the cooker. This was a leap in evolution.

Hello monkey

Me and tea are inseparable

So, if you know anywhere which sells British food in Bogota, please let me know. My fab friends from home are sending me some goodies, but I have not seen a Colombian postal service. I haven’t seen a post office either. I have no idea how to send or receive letters, or where to buy stamps. The porteria handed me a letter once (from the Registraduria), but I have no idea how it go there; bike, van, horse?

For all its advancements and progression in the world economy, there are still lots of things that make Colombia stuck in its way. Like for example, a horse and cart pulling rubbish outside an apartment building so swanky, Blair Waldolf would have felt at home. Yes, it’s going to be interesting when I start working. I can’t wait to share with you my experiences.

Thank you for joining me along on the ride.

Reader Olga

Reader Olga wrote:

Hola!

Ok, First off, I’m not even sure how I stumbled upon your site. I am about to start my own blog, I am a Holandesa Colombiana living in the US, also trying to move to either Colombia or Holland to rediscover my roots. I’m excited to follow you.

GringaColombiana says:

Thanks Olga!

I wish you lots of luck with your move, and let me know where you decide to go….If you want any tips on starting a blog, I recently wrote this on putting mine together (just click here).

Do stay in touch!

Besitos
xx

Meet Jose Ignacio Cadena Trujillo

Jose Ignacio Cadena Trujillo

Here’s another person I’d love you to meet. His name is Jose Ignacio Cadena Trujillo and he’s an artist. He lives in a small cottage with his lovely wife in the remote countryside, nestled in the mountains in La Calera, which is about 30 minutes from North Bogota. Nacho’s story is a pretty amazing one, as he has very limited eyesight. When he was just 11 years old, they found a tumour in his brain. After they removed the tumour with brain surgery, he was left with a visual field reduction in the right eye and a lesion in the left eye’s optic nerve. His memory and language skills were also destroyed, meaning he had to learn both again from scratch.

Now Nacho can see objects, colours, light and shadow, but in one eye, his visual field has been reduced by 70% and in the other, the notion of depth has been flattened. He says that he lives in a ‘2D Universe’.

Overall, pretty remarkable when you see his artwork.

So how did I meet him? He is a friend of a friend of mine. In true Colombian spirit, my friend wanted to introduce me to him, so grabbing a couple of his other mates, we climbed into the car and we were off, laden with a couple of grocery bags containing our lunch ingredients.

So what happens when you have an artist, a chief, two entrepreneur business minds and a writer stroke artist stroke unemployed advertiser? You make food, open some beers, drink tinto and you talk. Now this is the life.

Chef chops food

Delicious salad

Crowding around the food

From the outside, Nacho’s home looks quite small and quite uneventful. But as soon as the car pulled up, we were greeted like long-lost friends and hushered into his home in the famous Paisa spirit. Once inside, you are gobsmacked by the art. It’s everywhere; on floors, on walls, on canvas, on sketchpads, on paper, on print, on wooden boxes, on bottles and even the cat scratcher is an artistic sculptor. Nacho is only too happy to pull out canvases or present his vast painting on paper collections, explaining in detail each piece and what they meant. At least, that’s what I gather as my Spanish only goes so far, or it might have been that I was in a desert heaven so my mind was wondering…

Amazing view from the studio

Seduced by the desert...homemade uchuva ice cream with mint, almonds and biscuits

For those of you without a desert in hand and advance Spanish, here is that translation about Nacho’s story behind is artwork “At first, when I was a child, painting was an exercise and way of escape. Next I looked to empty all logical intention inside of me in an abstract, deep emptiness that afterwards became a noisy, dark hole with a loaded brushstroke of yellow against an orange background. That character gave me a vision for another; which in that moment needed to take an anthropomorphic direction that today helps me reference the human being (the species and I suppose my alto ego) and through this I always depict change and movement.

Afterwards, in the internal intersection and / or collision between the figurative and abstract, I returned to the parallel path I mentioned earlier in that there isn’t a clear representation….It’s more an intimate portrayal of a brain microscope and electricity that I relate to from my history with neurology, and what’s more with the heads of others. So in this story, the art materials are transformed into a beast of something so profound, complex and utterly absurd…like the homo-sapiens of our century”.

Pretty intellectual and in-depth stuff…especially for my Spanish. But, art doesn’t need a language and what I took from the paintings spellbound me. His passion and talent goes beyond the four walls of his cottage and wraps you up in a warmth of creativity. I don’t think he has a humble home at all, in fact, I think he is the luckiest man ever. Who else could have a home literally built from artwork and call it humble?

When recovering, Nacho explored his new spatial perception through his art

Nacho’s work is both figurative and abstract, but he leaves the message open for the viewer to interpret. He describes his work as a mirror which reflects the viewer’s thoughts

Nacho’s artwork costs from $ 180,000 COP to $ 7,000,000 COP

With the artist

I wanted to show his work to you because it is amazing and undiscovered. So I wanted to introduce you to him. Perhaps you would like to buy his art? Or maybe you know of a gallery that would like to?

If you would like to get in touch with Nacho, you can contact him at:

www.wix.com/joseignaciocadena/paginadelartista
• facebook: Jose Ignacio Trujillo Chain
• Twitter: @ignaciocadena
• e-mail: ignaciocadena@gmail.com
• Phone (+57) 3125735510 or 3012556598

And yes, although his house is very remote, he does have wifi.

Scroll below for more info about Nacho:

ESTUDIOS

1994-1997. Artes Plásticas, Escuela Popular de Arte. Medellín
1997-2003. Artes Plásticas, Universidad Nacional de Colombia. Sede Medellín
2004. Taller Teórico de Creación Artística; dirigido por Álvaro Medina. Bogotá

TÍTULO

Maestro en Artes Plásticas de la Universidad Nacional de Colombia

EXPOSICIONES COLECTIVAS

1995. V Encuentro de Artes Plásticas Ciudad de Medellín. Salón Central. Secretaría de Educación y Cultura de Medellín. Sede alterna del Museo de Antioquia.
1996. I Muestra Estudiantes Artes Plásticas Escuela Popular de Arte. Tesorería Municipal. Medellín.
1998. VIII Encuentro de Artes Plásticas Ciudad de Medellín. Salón Central. Museo de Antioquia.
1998. Artistas Ganadores, Encuentro de Artes Plásticas Ciudad de Medellín. Salón Central 1993-1997. Hall Alcaldía de Medellín.
1999. IX Encuentro de Artes Plásticas Ciudad de Medellín. Salón Central. Palacio de la Cultura.
1999. Retroprospectivas. Versiones del Devenir. Grupo Acefalia. Ateneo Porfirio Barba Jacob. Medellín.
2000. “Acefalia”. Grupo Acefalia. Cámara de Comercio de Medellín. Edificio de la Cultura.
2000. IX Salón Regional de Artistas 2000. Bienal, Zona Antioquia. Medellín.
2000. Salón Nacional de Dibujo Universidad de Antioquia. Acefalia, grupo invitado. Museo Universitario. Medellín.
2000. XI Salón Nacional de Artistas Universidad de Antioquia. Medellín.
2001. XII Salón Nacional de Artistas Universidad de Antioquia. Medellín.
2001. Salón Arturo y Rebeca Rabinovich. Museo de Arte Moderno de Medellín.
2002. Pintura por Cuatro. Alianza Francesa. Medellín
2002. XII Encuentro de Artes Plásticas Ciudad de Medellín. Salón Central. Palacio de la Cultura.
2002. Región Andina. Librería IDEA. Barcelona (España).
2005. Encuentros. Atena Estudio de Arte. Bogotá.
2005. 5. La Pared Galería. Bogotá.
2007. A mi no me invitaron. Librería asociativa Traficantes de Sueños. Madrid (España).
2007. Caleidoscopio. Centro Hispano Colombiano. Embajada de Colombia en España. Madrid (España).
2008. Contemporáneos. Galería Fenalco. Bogotá.
2010. Opening Area 23. Galeria Area 23. Miami (USA).

EXPOSICIONES INDIVIDUALES

1997. Exposición de Pintura para el lanzamiento del libro Dodecaedro de Palabras o los Círculos de Fuego. Comfama, Sede San Ignacio, Centro de Convenciones. Medellín.
1999. Dibujos y Tangos. Bar Calle Luna. Medellín.
2003. Extravío, Trauma y Llegada. Biblioteca Pública Piloto. Medellín.
2007. Pedazos de Carne. Galería Restaurante El Artista. Bogotá.
2008. Trece Tripas. Galería Restaurante Fuego y Mar. Bogotá.

DISTINCIONES

1995. Segundo puesto. V Encuentro de Artes Plásticas Ciudad de Medellín.
1999. Tercer puesto. IX Encuentro de Artes Plásticas Ciudad de Medellín.
2002. Tercer puesto. XII Encuentro de Artes Plásticas Ciudad de Medellín.

PUBLICACIONES

1995. Dodecaedro de palabras, o los círculos del fuego. Memorias del Primer Festival de Literatura Joven de Medellín y el Área Metropolitana. Comisión Asesora para la Cultura, Consejo de Medellín. Ilustración de la cubierta.
1998. Artículo El humo de Luis Tejada. Revista Universidad de Antioquia. Número 252. Abril – Junio 1998. Ilustraciones. P. 31.
1998. Artículo Querella del tratado y la tragedia de Julián Serna Arango. Revista Universidad de Antioquia. Número 252. Abril – Junio 1998. Ilustraciones. P. 59-65.
1998. Artículo Tres cuentos de Marbel Moreno de Marbel Moreno. Revista Universidad de Antioquia. Número 253. Julio – Septiembre 1998. Ilustraciones. P. 57-59.
2000. Apuntes Supieños, Bitácora de Búsquedas II de Luis Fernando González Escobar. Ediciones Caítos. Ilustraciones.
2005. Kazue Shinkawa, Poemas Selectos. Colección de poesía Prometeo. Serie Hipnos No. 14. Ilustraciones.

Celebrating the Queen’s Jubilee (Colombian style)

What did you get up for the Jubilee weekend? Did you wave the flag, eat sausage rolls and drink too many glasses of wine? Or did you flee the country for the long weekend?

Here’s what I did.

Before I left the UK I did the previously unthinkable; I bought the British flag. Not only that, I bought 20 of them all strung together on bunting. I remember when growing up, that the British flag was a rare sight, now we can’t get enough of it and it’s everywhere.

When moving to Colombia, I wanted to bring my heritage with me so I don’t forget my British culture. So I packed a suitcase full of goodies including Jamie Oliver and Emma Bridgewater tea towels, my beloved Peyton and Bryne baking book as well as my now world renowned British flag cushion, tea pot, mugs and Hunter wellies.

In recent months, it has been cool to be British and we’re more proud of our nationality. I love British design, and when I get my own place, it’s going to be a melting pot of both cultures… If you’re coming to visit in the future, expect to be exporting lots of things over for me!

So what did I do for the Jubilee? I raised the bunting and we had a typically Colombian family asado in the finca. Perfecto!

One Brit amongst 20 Colombians and the flag goes up

And the flags are up

gringaColombiana celebrates with a Colombian beer

Proud to be British

Emma Bridgewater Jubilee cake tins are on my 'visitor's wish list'

How to start a blog

Reader Stewart says:

I wanted to ask how you started your blog. Did you design it yourself?

I myself am an expat thinking of starting a blog and telling my story on GringosAbroad.com so
any feedback you can offer I appreciate. We moved to Ecuador from USA last year.

gringaColombiana says:

Hi Reader Stewart,

Wow, thanks for your message! How is Ecuador going? I have loved moving abroad and GringosAbroad.com is a fab website, which is doing really well.

I thought I would publish my response as it may help inspire others to start their own blog. After all, if I can do it, so can you!

I didn’t have a clue how to make a blog, all I knew is that I wanted to start one. Luckily, everything is on the web, so you can simply Google everything you want to find out.

Here are some things that got me started with my site, which may help you:

1. Inspiration
Firstly, to understand what a blog actually was, I looked at others for inspiration to get kick started. I recommend you look around at other similar blogs to follow the ones you like.

My personal favourite is www.designmom.com. As you can probably tell, I used a similar style with mine, as I especially loved the clean, simple layout, use of photos etc.

2. Getting started
I stumbled upon this fantastic article, which pretty much covers all the steps through to the end: www.howtostartablog.org.

From this, I decided to host my site via Dreamhost where I paid about £50 for the year’s subscription. The design and layout is thanks to WordPress, and they make it really easy to install and get started on the content. Don’t worry if you don’t know how to use WordPress as they have lots of step-by-step guides and there’s also plenty of info available on YouTube.

3. Pimping up your site
After I had my basic site set up, I wanted to add social media tabs to link my blog to my Tiwtter and Facebook accounts. Again, I needed help as I had no idea how to do this. Luckily, via my Twitter account, I got help from @2createawebsite who gave me the following link: michelleshaeffer.com

4. Knowing your audience
It’s useful to know if anyone (apart from your mum) is actually reading your blog, so I recommend adding Google Analytics to monitor your traffic. It’s a FREE service and you can find the link here.

This was invaluable advice given to me by @uzi_1

Well, that’s it. Now you know everything I do. There’s lots more things you can do with blogs, but I am happy with mine at the moment.

Maybe my readers will get in touch with their experience.

Good luck!

gringaColombiana x

Fever

gringaColombiana is sick in bed with a fever and watching back-to-back episodes of Modern Family.

Due to the unprecedented amount of spelling and grammar errors, I’ve decided to leave my blog alone before I get a bad reputation.

I’ll be back shortly.

Besitos
x

PS. Image is taken from willowcreekpediatrics.blogspot.com

Hecho en Colombia

The other night, my chef friend took me to one of his favourite restaurants. It’s a Colombian restaurant. Great! I thought. I love Colombian food; empanadas, ajiaco, arepa. Bring it on.

The restaurant is called Mini Mal. I was told it’s very Colombian with typical national food. As memories of another Colombian food restaurant Club Colombia faded in and out of my mind, I couldn’t wait.

We drove to the restaurant, passing the big, glossy establishments in Zona G to Chapinero Alto. We pulled up outside the restaurant, which was a little house on a little hill. A parking attendant opened the door for us, up a little entrance we walked and in we went into the small house.

The interior was surprisingly open and bright, with a scattered collection of random chairs. It was creative, it was airy, it wouldn’t look out of place in Shoreditch. But where Shoreditch tries hard to achieve the look, you have the feeling that the restaurant just naturally grew like this. In fact, one of the staff is the artist behind all the paper cuttings.

Very cool cheese grater lampshade.

We choose a table and sat down. I stared hard at the menu I was handed. I understood NOTHING. Absolutely zilch. I find this the most difficult part about learning a foreign language. I mean, Spanish words for food sound nothing like their English counterparts. Not only this, the food is sourced from far away, exotic regions of Colombia I hadn’t heard of or been to, so it was not your typical Bogota options. It turns out ‘Mini Mal’ wasn’t the “Hey, this is a funky, new-age minimal dining affair. Yeah, forget the large portions your mama gives you, and let’s do ‘minimalist’”, but had a more intelligent, ethical meaning. It is “An exercise in gastronomic creation research resources of the Colombian geography, which is nourished by the respect and esteem for the diversity of our cultural tradition and seeks to point out the value of living unnoticed among the countries most diverse life forms the planet and enjoying a human landscape so full of nuances.” Turns out that the owner spent lots of time in remote parts of Colombia learning about local cuisine and ingredients, and basically has bought it to Bogota. Mini Mal is about bringing the food to the table through sustainability with minimal resources. Their three main beliefs are “Biodiversity, cultural diversity and creativity”.

Right, fantastic. So as thoughts of empanadas were swiftly removed from my mind, I decided to let go and just let my friend take control. As he patiently translated random ingredients bought together in a completely unexpected fusion, which was beyond my imagination, I decided to climb aboard the taste rollercoaster and fasten my seatbelt.

First up were the starters; ‘chicarron’ calamari in corn coating with mint and ginger, ‘pica pica’ (a regional cheese on skewers’) and what I believed to be creamed yucca deep fried in balls with a cinnamon sauce. To wash down this colourful feast, I threw caution to the wind and went with my friend’s suggestion to drink juice from fruit only found in the Amazon. The fruit in question were called Copoazu (kind of nutty in flavour and from the cacao family) and Araza (very acidic). The jury is out on these juices, as mango juice holds my heart. But towards the end, I didn’t mind the taste invasion too much.

Chicharrón de calamar

Pica Pica

Yucca with a yogurt dressing

Forefront: Araza juice with starfruit. Background: Copoazu with a feijoa dressing.

Being a chef, my friend knew the owner who was a lovely, passionate and very chatty guy called Eduardo. Eduardo gave us some little treats to try. A plate arrived promptly with three very pretty seafood things on it. Memories of being a child and rejecting any seafood that didn’t look like Fish Fingers floated into my head as I stared down at some tentacles embracing what I thought to be a biscuit. My friend is vegetarian, so these little parcels of joy were all for me. OK. Remembering to throw caution to the wind, I scooped up a ‘biscuit’ and bit down on a tentacle. Now this was bizarre. It wasn’t a biscuit, but a sweet, coconut based desert type thing, which I vaguely recalled from the coast. The sauce for the seafood was the opposite. It was spicy and minty. It was delicious.

I was now pacing myself. This wasn’t a jog in the park. This was a slow race; blindfolded and in a maze. Where was the next turn? Where did the next taste come from? I hadn’t a clue. I suspect my friend did though.

Next we shared a main. I was told a story about how my next dish was piangua. Apparently these are molluscs from the Pacific. I was asked if I liked mussels? Yes! I cried. I do like mussels. I also recognise mussels, which surely will put me in good stead for what’s to arrive (‘open mind’, I think, ‘open mind’). I was told that these were on special and very rare. They are now considered a delicacy whereas before, collecting these mussels were left to a woman to do, and was as sort after as collecting rubbish from the city streets. I look forward to the delight.

Collecting piangua (image courtesy of www.minagricultura.gov.co)

It arrives. It’s unrecognisable. Gone are the mussels wrapped in shells in garlic sauce and chips on the side. My plate was black. Like tar. There were no shells. As I suspiciously stirred the tar, I looked for anything that resembled mussels with garlic and chips. There wasn’t anything, but I did see my reflection. I grimaced. I questioned our friendship. I scoured the plate for something else to look at. I was relieved to see some other familiar things. I saw fried plantain (yum), coconut rice (OK) and salad (yum!). I was told to try the piangua with some plantain. Ok, I will. It tasted good. Very good. Ok, it wasn’t mussels with garlic and chips on the side, but it was good and different. Apparently the green stuff was wild herbs like mint, which are native to certain regions on Colombia. I suddenly feel very foreign and detached from my heritage.

Giving it a go

Hmmmm, pretty good

But the tasty delights don’t stop there. Oh no, I was asked if I like chili. Yes, I love chili! This I do like. Ok, I’m in for a treat then as we’re about to be given chilli from the Amazon to try. Great, I think. I’ve been to the Amazon, surely there’s some part of me that will feel at home (…even though I went 20 years ago for a short holiday). The chili arrives. I assume as it’s in a paste, it’s very hot as there’s very, very little of it. Literally a teaspoon. But we have more fried plantain to spread it out with. Great! Chili AND plantain. A bit like exotic flavoured Walkers crisps. I take a bite…

It’s not hot. I wait, expecting my mouth to be blown off. My friend takes a bite. We’re a bit puzzled. We wait. We think. We look at each other. The waiter (another friend of my friend) pops back and asks if we like it. Er, yes we say. It’s not exactly was I was expecting, but it’s OK. Instead of curry paste, it tastes more like Marmite or perhaps soya sauce. We are told by the waiter that we’ve just eaten ants. I feel cheated. I would have preferred chili. My chef friend has gone a little paler…there goes his vegetarianism. Overall it’s not bad. I try it again so I don’t look like a wimp. I can now tick that off my list.

Tucupi: ants and chili paste

Feeling rather defeated, I looked forward to heading home and switching on the sandwich machine. But desert has been ordered by the two chefs. It arrives looking like another beautifully put together piece of edible artwork. I’m told that it’s called ‘Estrella Polar’…which I take to mean the North Pole or North Star. It’s some kind of ground corn which tastes kind of sweet (called ‘envuelto de maiz’), with vanilla ice cream (using fresh vanilla pods from a region in Colombia) and passion fruit sauce. It is divine, and the portion is so huge, I had no problem sharing.

With the feast almost over, I yelp for a coffee to save me from passing out in a stupor. We’re offered their specialty which is coffee and fresh ginger. Mine is a tinto, his is an espresso. I sip my tinto and my head nearly blows off. It’s potent and the ginger is so fresh and strong that it feels like I’m drinking straight whiskey. But I’m reassured otherwise, and it is delicious. It is probably one of the best coffees I’ve had. Starbucks ginger latte what?

Tinto with fresh ginger

Aguardiente Biche del Choco...made from real sugar cane juice

Barely able to move at this point, I ponder my meal. It has been bizarre, colourful, exotic and like an adventure. I would definitely recommend, because when else are you going to travel around all the regions of Colombia from your table high up in Chapinero Alto for about £15/pp?

The kitchen

Mini Mal's shop

There's a shop too if you fancy post food shopping. All items are from Colombian artisans

Helpful hint: go with a Colombian who speaks Spanish. Not only will it help decipher the menu, their knowledge of the native food adds to the experience. Get ready to buckle your seatbelts.

If you’d like to try it for yourself, here are the details:

Address: cra 4A 57-52, Bogota

Phone: 347 5464

www.mini-mal.org